INGREDIENTS

Some of the active ingredients and their actions that can be found in the skinsaviour range of products.

Natural plant extracts and oils work well with the skin receptor cells of the human body, providing safe and effective action and are added to enhance the skin’s natural repair process . These natural moisturising factors, mimic the structure of the skin, helping to maintain the lipid layer of the skin, giving a smooth feel to the skin, relieving dryness and aiding the skin’s healing system, giving a natural vitality and radiance with rapid and long lasting hydration. These plant oils also give skinsaviour its subtle, natural fragrance.

Retinyl palmitate

Vitamin A is an essential antioxidant, derived from retinol which is Vitamin A in its purest form and palmitic acid. A highly effective antioxidant, this ingredient helps to regulate skin cell processes and helps to protect against free radical damage.

After its absorption into the skin, retinyl palmitate is then converted to retinol and ultimately into retinoic acid.

Study: Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol).

Affiliation: Department of Dermatology, University of Michigan Medical School, Ann Arbor, MI 48109, USA

Publicatioon date: 2007 .05, Arch Dermatol., 143(5):606-12

Publication type: Randomised Controlled Trial; Research Support, N.I.H, Extramural, Non US Govt.

Objective: To evaluate the effectiveness of topical retinol(vitaminA) in improving the clinical signs of naturally aged skin.

Conclusion: Topical retinol improves fine wrinkles associated with natural aging. With greater skin matrix synthesis, retinol-treated skin is more likely to withstand skin injury and ulcer formation with improved performance.

Study : The Use of Retinoids in the treatment of Photoaging.

Author: SinghM, Griffiths CE

Affiliation: Dermatopharmacology Unit, The Dermatology Centre, University of Manchester, Hope Hospital,                Manchester United Kingdom

Publication: 2006.09, Dermatol Ther., 19(5):297-305

Retinoids are capable not only of repairing photoaged skin at both the clinical and biochemical levels but their use may prevent photoaging. There is in addition emerging evidence that topical retinoids could be beneficial in the treatment of intrinsically aged skin.

Ascorbyl palmitate

Vitamin C helps to stimulate collagen synthesis in the fibroblasts of the skin and is a potent antioxidant. Studies have shown visible and statistically significant improvements when applied topically. Vitamin C also helps to reduce inflammation in the skin, another process that can increase the rate that the skin cells age. Helps to inhibit the production of melatonin which means less pigmentation and more even skin tone.

Vitamin C has proven itself to be a powerful antioxidant and helps to protect against photo damage caused by the UVA and UVB rays of the sun, not by being a physical sun block but by helping to neutralise the free radicals that cause photo damage to the skin. Vitamin C can help minimise fine lines and is an important part of the skin’s process in healing itself. Helps to strengthen the barrier defences of the skin, promoting collagen formation and reducing water loss.

UV photoprotection by combination topical antioxidants vitamin C and vitamin E.

Study: Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study versus placebo.

Vitamin C is known for its antioxidant potential and activity in the collagen biosynthetic pathway. Photoprotective properties of topically applied vitamin C have also been demonstrated, placing this molecule as a potential candidate for use in the prevention of skin aging.

Conclusions: A highly significant increase in the density of kin microrelief and a decrease of the deep furrows were demonstrated. Ultrastructural evidence of the elastic tissue repair was also obtained and well corrobated the favourable results of the clinical and skin surface examinations.It led to a clinically apparent improvement of the photo damaged skin and induced modifications of skin relief and ultrastructure, suggesting a positive influence of topical vitamin C on parameters characteristic for sun-induced skin aging.

Study: Topically applied vitamin C enhances the mRNA level of collagens I and III, their processing enzymes and tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase 1 in the human dermis.

Author: Nusgens BV, Humbert P, Rougier A, Colige AC, Haftek M, Lambert CA, Richard A, Creidi P, Lapiere CM

Afffiliation: Laboratory of Connective Tissues Biology, Tour de Pathologie, University of Liege, Sart Tilman, Belgium.

Publication date: 2001.06, J Invest Dermatol, 116(6):853-9

In fibroblast culture, vitamin C also stimulates collagen production by increasing steady-state level of mRNA of collagen types I and III through enhanced transcription and prolonged half-life of the transcripts. The aim of the experimental work has been to evaluate the effect on dermal cells of a preparation of vitamin C topically applied on one sied versus placebo on the other side..on postmenopausal women.

Conclusion: The stimulating activity of topical Vitamin C was most conspicuous inn the women with the lowest dietary intake of vitamin and unrelated to the level of actinic damage. The results indicate that the functional activity of the dermal cells is not maximal in postmenopausal women and can be increased.

Tocopherol Acetate

Vitamin E is the key fat soluble antioxidant in the body, since it is soluble in fat and oil, Vitamin E can help protect the cell membrane from free radical attack. Vitamin E can help improve the skin’s ability to retain moisture, and is soothing and healing to the skin.

Vitamin E is a VIP in the antioxidant world, being lipid-soluble it is extremely bio available to the skin and provides significant antioxidant protection against free radical damage from photo aging from the sun. Oxidative stress has been repeatedly proven to be a major contributor to the development of age related skin conditions and therefore the skin’s appearance. Vitamin A helps to reduce redness and swelling, inflammation that helps to promote adverse effects in the skin including wrinkling.

Study: UV photoprotection by  combination topical antioxidants vitamin C and vitamin E.

Author: Lin JY, Selim MA, Shea CR, Grichnik JM, Omar MM, Monteiro-Riviere NA, Pinnell SR

Affiliation: Department of Medicine, Duke University Medical Center, Durham, NC 27710 USA.

Publication date: 2003.06, J Am Acad Dermatol., 48(6):866-74

Virtually all plants and animals protect themselves from the sun using vitamins C and E. The purpose of this study was to see if a combination of topical vitamins C and E is better for UV protection to skin.

Conclusion: Appreciable photoprotection can be obtained from the combination of topical vitamins C and E. We suggest these natural products may protect against skin cancer and photoaging.

Oryza Sativa Oil

Rich in Vitamin E, and has an emollient, moisturising action on the skin.

Camellia Oleifera Extract

Green tea extract contains biologically active substances called polyphenols which are very efficient antioxidants, protecting the DNA from structural damage caused by pollutants and toxins.

Study: Photoprotective effects of green tea polyphenols.

Author: Yusuf N, Irby C, Katiyar SK, Elmets CA

Affiliation; Department of Dermatology, University of Alabama at Birmingham, Birmingham, AL 35294, USA

Publication date: 2007.02, Photodermal Photoimmunol Photomed., 23(1):48-56 Review

Non-melanoma skin cancer is the most common malignancy in humans and is equivalent to the incidence of malignancies in all other organs in the United States. Green tea  phenols have the greatest effect with respect to chemoprevention and have been found to be most potent at suppressing the carcinogenic activity of UV radiation. They protect against many of the other damaging effects of UV radiation such as UV-induced sunburn response, UV-induced immunosuppression and photoging of the skin. Green tea polyphenols thus ahve the potential, when used in conjunction with traditional sunscreens, to further protect the skin against the adverse effects of ultraviolet radiation.

Study: Green tea and skin.

Affiliation: Department of Dermatology, Case Wetern Reserve University, Cleveland, OH 44106, USA

Publication Date: 2000.08, Arch Dermatol., 136(8):989-94 Review

Objective: To discuss the current knowledge of polyphenolic compounbds present in green tea as anti – inflammatory, antioxidant, and anticarginogenic in skin.

Data Extraction: Articles were selected based on the use of green tea or its polyphenic constituents for prevention against inflammation and cancer in the skin.

Conclusion: the outcome of the several experimental studies suggest that green tea  possess anti-inflammatory and anticarcinogenic potential, which can be exploited against a variety of skin disorders. Although more clinical studies are needed, supplementation of skin care products with green tea may have a profound effect on various skin disorders in the years to come.

Citrus Paradisi Seed Extract – Vitis vinifera

Grape seed extract contains potent antioxidants called proanthocyanidins that help to lessen the adverse effects of the sun on the skin and environmental damage, limiting the damage and the occurrence of free radicals. There is evidence to show that green tea can help reduce the breakdown of collagen, helping to maintain the elasticity of the skin. Grape seed extract also helps the skin in reducing inflammation and promotes healing of damage to the skin, having anti inflammatory properties.

Study: Photoprotection of UV-irridated human skin: an antioxidantative combination of vitamins E and C, carotenoids, selenium and proanthocyanidins.

Author: Greul AK, Grundman JU, Heinrich F, Pfitzner I, Bernhardt J, Ambach A, Biesalski HK, Gollnick H

Affiliation: Department of Biological Chemistry and Nutrition, University of Hohenheim, Stuttgart, Germany.

Publication: 2002.09, Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol, 15(5):307-15

Endongenous antioxidants are decreased in skin and blood during UV exposure.

Hylauronic acid

Hylaronic acid is produced naturally by the skin, lubricates the connective tissue, plumping the skin from within helping to give a firm appearance. Has a noticeable and immediate effect.

Hylauronic acid is a great water binding agent keeping the skin hydrated and plumped, giving the skin rejuvenating freshness and minimising lines.

Rosa Canina Oil

Rosehip oil has superb emollient and antioxidant protection. It has a high concentration of essential fatty acids that help to protect the cell membranes, skin repair and can help with healing some skin conditions.

One of the oldest medicinal plants in history and traditional healing, referenced through the centuries and documented for its healing properties since the 17th century.

Octyl Palimate

is an emollient providing a high level of moisture to the skin, helping the prevent the skin from becoming dehydrated by preserving the skin’s barrier, reducing water loss.

Glycerine

Glycerine helps attract water into the skin and helps keep the homeostasis or balance of the skin by drawing in the optimum amount of water into the intercellular matrix of the skin that it needs to maintain and protect this balance. Glycerine also is a lipid that works well in conjunction with other natural lipids.

Glycerol stearate

Derived from palm and soy oil, softens and smooths the skin.

Glycol stearate has moisturising properties as well as the ability to bind water to the skin, helping to preserve the lipid layer and reduce water loss, giving a very subtle illuminating effect.

Stearic Acid is an emollient, a moisturiser that helps to hydrate the skin and helps to stabilise the cream.

Phenoxyethanol

A safe alternative to parabens, Phenoxyethanol acts as a preservative and is known to be very low irritant keeping the product intact.It does not release any formaldehyde.

Ethylhexyl stearate is a naturally derived preservative, a  fatty acid helping to preserve the integrity of the skin’s lipid layer and prevent moisture loss.

Olea Europaea Oil

Olive oil is emollient plant oil, giving oxidant protection and is a great natural moisturiser factor. Traditionally used for centuries to improve the look and suppleness of the skin

There have been a small number of tests that show olive oil topically applied can protect against UVB damage.

Study: Carcinogenesis November 2000 pages 2085-2090

Journal of Dermatological Science March 2000 Supplemental pages S45-S50

Shea butter

Shea butter is a lipid, a fruit butter from the Shea tree and is highly emollient and soothing making it a very effective moisturiser, helping to protect the natural lipid layer of the skin.

Linoleic Acid

is an unsaturated fatty acid that is an emollient that helps to keep the lipid layer intact, research showing its effectiveness in cell regulation and skin barrier repair. As well being a rich moisturiser it has antioxidant and an anti inflammatory effect.

Prunus Amygdalus oil

A natural moisturising factor, a natural nut oil, high in fatty acids that absorbs beautifully into the skin.

Buxus Chinensis Oil

A remarkable oil, cold pressed from the seed of the jojoba seed, a truly remarkable moisturiser, being very similar in composition to our natural sebum and penetrates deeply into the lipid layer, helping too in skin conditions with strong antibacterial and antifungal properties.

Study: Antioxidant activity, lipid peroxidation and skin diseases.

Author: Briganti S, Picardo M

Affiliation: Cutaneous Physiopathology Laboratory, San Gallicano Dermatological Institute, 25/A Via S. Galliacano  00153-Rome Italy.

Publication date: 2003.10, J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol, 17(6):663-9 Review.

Due to its interface function between the body and the environment,the skin is chronically exposed to both endogenous and environmental pro-oxidant agents, leading to harmful generation of reactive oxygen species.

The recent demonstration that the peroxime proliferators-activated receptors, whhose natural ligands are polyunsturatefd fatty acids and their oxidation products, have a central role in the induction of some skin diseases, such as psoriasis or acne, has indicated new links between free radicals and skin inflammation. Based on these findings, the review summarises the possible correlatyions between antiozidant imbalance, lipid oxidative imbalance, lipid oxidative breakage and skin diseases from both a pathological and therapeutic point of view.